Turn the system off immediately at the breaker. Not just at the timer! Contact us ASAP

It is generally recommended that the pump run in the heat of the day. It is this time algae and bacteria have the best time to thrive. We suggest running the system for a minimum of 10 hours a day in the heat of the summer.

A strong chlorine smell, contrary to belief, often means chlorine needs to be added. High levels of chloramines emit a strong chlorine smell and chloramines form when chlorine interacts with contaminants, like sweat, body oils and organic matter. In the scenario chlorine needs to be added by shocking to sanitize the water and get rid of the chloramine or combined chlorine, in doing so the free chlorine and total chlorine should be at the same level.

Usually the easiest way is to add water to the pump via a empty bucket or garden hose. Make sure the pump lid o-ring stays in place when securing the lid, and turn the system on. Using the air bleeder at the top of the filter tank, releases trapped air in the system. In some cases it is easier to prime one suction line at a time. Shut off the drain and 1 skimmer line (if there are two). After the pump catches prime then you can open the closed off lines.

If neither of the above steps work, turn off the pool system using the main breaker (NOT just the timer) and call us for service.

Before jumping to conclusions that the pool has a leak there are a few other things to take a look at. Check the cover for holes, even the smallest hole will allow the water to perk up from underneath. If a cover pump is used to remove rain water the pump will also be removing the pool water as well. If there is no hole in the cover, a lot of water displacement can happen. This occurs when rain water or snow weight becomes so great that it is pushing down on the cover, which then pushes the water from underneath up and out of the pool. This usually happens with big snow storms or if a cover pump is not used.

In the spring the most common cause is a clogged impeller. This happens when debris or organic material that gets passed through the skimmer and pump baskets and gets lodged in the impellar. The impeller is a veined disc that draws the water through the pump and into the filtration system. When debris obstructs these veins less water passes through the filter resulting in lower pressure readings.
Making sure that your pump basket isn’t cracked can prevent this problem.

When the pressure on the filter tank goes up 8-10PSI then system needs to be backwashed. Remember after every backwash it is necessary to add more DE to the skimmer. Make sure you know the right amount; usually 6lbs.

NO, the salt systems are producing a pure form of chlorine. The production of this pure chlorine does not have any of the additive that granular chlorine or chlorine tablet have, therefore making it easier on the eyes and skin. This process is created through electrolysis and repeated indefinitely as long as the proper salt level is maintained.

First make sure that the water chemistry is balanced including the cyranaric acid. Then ask for your water to be tested for phosphates. Phosphates are a nutrient for algae therefore chlorine cannot properly do its job to keep up with the high demand. Phosphates are a main ingredient in lawn fertilizer so be careful when doing lawn work this spring and summer.

A: First check for missing or damaged pump lid o-rings. Make sure the o-ring is lubricated with a Teflon based lubricant.

B: Check the pump and skimmer baskets for debris and clean as needed.

C: Check the skimmer weir to make sure it is not stuck, causing the water from not flowing into the skimmer mouth.